Teatro Solis!

I live outside of Montevideo, in one of the coastal communities about an hour away from it, so going into the capital city of Montevideo is somewhat of a treat for me.

Plaza Independencia with the Artigas mausoleum and palm trees on the left.

I mentioned in an earlier post that the Plaza Independencia was near the Theater/opera house, Teatro Solis. Well, believe it or not, after 5 years of living here I finally went inside this landmark theatre.

I went there to attend a Jazz festival. I like the old "Big Band" style of music, like the way Arthur Miller once conducted. The night that I went to the Teatro Solis, the Montevideo Symphony orchestra was performing. It was being lead by Maestro Panchito Nolé, one of the last exponents of the golden age of grand orchestras. His great passion for Big Band music and Jazz led to his forming his own band and having a successful career in radio and television in Uruguay and Argentina. He is a pianist as well as a conductor and music arranger. Surprisingly he even performed some music by Quincy Jones that night, a more modern well know composer. He likes all genres of music.

That night there was also performing, an Italian quartet sponsored by the Italian Embassy. Flavio Boltro played trumpet and Eric Legnini played piano. These two are well known international players. Eric Legnini was born in Belgium. He is the son of Italian immigrants and so has kept close ties to Italy. Flavio is into modern Jazz and has played in Paris. Franck Agulhon was on drums and Thomas Bramerie was on Bass. They played more alternative Jazz and not big band style. We had floor seats up close and center.

The Solis Theatre or Teatro Solis (in Spanish) was inaugurated on August 25th. 1856. It is the oldest theatre in Uruguay. It is government owned by Montevideo. In 1998 a large scale renovation took place and it wasn't reopened again until August of 2004.

There is a tradition that when there is a performance going on, a special light located on the top of the theatre glows red to signal that a show is on. You can especially see this better at night, of course, but just in case you have any doubts, just go around to the back of the building where the entire top half of the roof is lit up red.

When you first step inside there is a beautiful crystal chandelier to greet you. A modern exposition Gallery is up the stairs and a small drink café is off to one side on the bottom floor.

Next, after a quick trip to the ladies room, I stepped inside to an elegant old world scene, a grand room with 5 tiers of balcony seating was ringing the floor seating.

Red velvet and wooden appliques on a light yellow, antiqued wood paneling arose before my eyes. A grand old lady indeed. Sadly, because during that night there occurred a sudden soccer playoff between Brazil and Uruguay most of the paid for seats were left vacant. Soccer watching prevailed over a live music performance.

It ended up being a "bit" in my favor as my friends and I convinced the ushers to let us sit in one of the now empty balcony seats (probably against policy but we managed to do it). We choose the President's box to watch the second quartet group from Italy. The seats closest to the rail on all levels are very tight fitting with no leg or toe room (in my opinion). Our seats on the main floor were much more comfortable. At least, I didn't have to pay anything to learn that lesson!

It's important to look up, at the ceilings of any great land mark as they are often highly decorated. The round ceiling in the main auditorium had the names of famous Romantic era composers like Verdi and Meyerbeer, etc... painted on it. There was a beautiful fresco painting above the stage area as well.

As I left, I walked around on the black and while tiled walkway that curves around the building. I was glancing at the beginning of Old Town/Cuidad Viejo, the original part of Montevideo thinking about how glorious this structure was then as it is now.

You can tour this theatre for free on Wednesdays at 11AM, 12PM and 4PM. Or pay a modest $20 (I believe that is in pesos??) on Tuesdays through Sunday (same hours). Saturday hours for the tours are 11, 12, 13/ 1PM and 4PM. They add the extra one o'clock time slot on Saturdays. Also, for $50 and booked ahead of time, you can arrange a tour in English, Portuguese or French but that depends on who's available. You need to call ahead to coordinate those language tours. The phone numbers to call are 1950 3323 or call  1950 3325.



As summer officially starts this month (December) for us down in South America, I will try and explore Montevideo a little more and report back on what I find.

Mausoleum of General Artigas

General Artigas, June 19th 1764 - September 23rd 1850.

In downtown Montevideo lies the Plaza Independencia.

It is well worth seeing as it contains several sights of interest. The Teatro Solis, a beautiful theater/opera house sits diagonally across from it.

The finally finished (43 years) "new" presidential office building called the Executive Tower graces another side of it and so does the Palacio Salvo. 

The Palacio Salvo is a stunning example of a 1930's Italian Gothic and mixed styled classic building, once the tallest building in Latin America.


However, smack dab in the middle of this spacious palm tree lined space with its accompanying park benches is a grand equestrian statue of a horse and its rider, General José Gervasio Artigas.

General José Artigas is the Uruguayan equivalent to the USA's General George Washington.
He is a national hero down here and is often called the "Founding father" of Uruguayan Nationhood.


There are many books and articles that historians have written about him. I have linked his name to a wikipedia link for more information about his life and for your convenience. Briefly, He is said to be instrumental in founding the move for independence here in Uruguay, (the name of the plaza). He fought against the Royalists of his day and was concerned about equality for all. He fought for civil liberty and religious freedom and he wanted to have a Republican Constitution. As a military man, he fought in the calvary hence the equestrian statue.

What many people might not know is that underneath this landmark lies his tomb, holding an urn with his ashes. There are 2 different stair cases (1 on each side) that you can choose from, to take you down to his underground mausoleum. There is NO admission charged!

As you descend the granite lined walls and stairs, you can see how weighty a person General Artigas is in the minds and hearts of Uruguayans.  The use of granite is extensive! A lovely brown is used along your trip down. Then you come underground into his tomb and find yourself in a massive, dimly lit room/shrine to the man.

The darkness is at first intense as the floors are now covered in black granite. I had to bend down and look very closely at the first steps to greet me inside so as to be able to navigate them.

Inside this underground mausoleum, the impressive concrete walls are covered with some dates surrounding important political events in his career and the dates of his birth and death.

Two soldiers stand guard, at attention, flanking his urn. It is guarded 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. The guards are like the ones guarding Buckingham Palace in England in that they don't move, speak or look at you. This meant that I could take as many pictures as I wanted inside without being scolded. 

There are 3 massive black granite steps that lead you down closer to the urn holding his remains. I went closer and took a couple of pictures of it while the soldiers ignored me, keeping their eyes straight ahead, staying at attention.

It was interesting being so close to such an important link in the history of the Uruguayan people and their country. Of some note, a monument to General Artigas also stands in Washington, D.C. USA.

I took the other stair way back up to the plaza level and had a nice view of the Palacio Salvo greeting  me at the top of the stair. I had tried to visit this mausoleum years ago but it had been closed for renovations and his ashes removed. So I am glad that it is open to the public. It's well worth the visit.

Uruguayan Citizenship/ Ciudadanía

Dear D and S,

Since you are the first expat couple that I actually know of who got their Uruguayan citizenship, I do have a few questions.

I want to hear your story but these few questions (8) can help me get started.

#1 Did you use a facilitator, to help you navigate or go through the hoops, ropes and steps?

Absolutely. I think you'd be nuts (especially in Montevideo) to try to do on your own. It - as everything - is easier in Maldonado; we have friends who got theirs there (first I know). Using an attorney's office, we didn't have to worry about getting our own docs notarized, translated, etc. as they can do that in-house.

#2 Did it cost you the fabled 10's of thousands of dollars to achieve or were there just ordinary fees like filing, etc... involved?

Our cost for the citizenship assistance was (USD) $1,200 each plus vat (total $1,317.60, but it should have been $1,500: they honored the price Juan Fischer stated at the Phyle meeting where we learned of this), plus 90% of the $600 on deposit to cover notary and translation costs. I guess the cost to start now for a couple would run $3,600. Still a bargain.

#3 What sort of information and paperwork do you feel they needed from you, to help them say, "yes". 

All the usual suspects as the base requisites. The "feel" leads into the next question.

#4  Did you need to establish any paper trail, like gym memberships to prove you were really here and involved?

Absolutely. In our experience, proving here matters more than involved. This is the most crucial set of records to be building if citizenship is an eventual goal: regular dentist/doctor visits seem to satisfy them best (Uruguayos love going to the doctor, apparently). Passport, regular ATM withdrawals, Tienda Inglesa points, and your peaje records are all irrelevant. You also need two Uruguayan citizens over 26 as testigos (I think you know that word ;-) who have known you for three years.

#5 Where did you go to file your request. US Embassy and/ or immigrations, etc..???

Has nothing to do with either; all done through La Corte Electoral. They apparently look down their noses at Migración: 1) eligibility to apply starts 3/5 years from the date you arrived in UY with the intention of living here (not when Migración got around to issuing a cédula) and 2) they don't accept passport or Migración records as proof you've been here (which I find strange). The US Embassy would come into play only were you to choose to renounce US citizenship.

#6 Did you feel like your US citizenship was in jeopardy at anytime?

The USA does not have any restrictions on dual citizenships (if it did, half the "leadership" in DC would have to hop a plane to Tel Aviv tomorrow). However, were the US to decide to nullify my passport like they did with Edward Snowden (not that they have cause), I would just pull out my Uruguayan one and be on my way. Which begs the question "why?" but since you didn't ask that, I'll pass: it's a rabbit hole ;-)

#7 How long did it take before you knew that it was going to actually happen? In other words, was it just a simple matter of filing for it, then waiting several months to be served a notice to take the oath or was it touch and go with a lot of wondering if it would actually work out? 

We were finally sure two weeks before we actually got our Cartes de Ciudadanía, 14 months after starting the process. Many trips to the court, always with the friendly people at Fischer & Schickendanz. The court made "some" demands (Denise adds, "these no doubt would vary from case to case and person to person"). There is no oath, nor any meeting with a judge.

#8 When will you eventually get a Uruguayan Passport? 

I'm going tomorrow to apply. I imagine it takes a month or so after that.

To clarify, though we conflate a passport with citizenship, and may want citizenship for the passport, it has no connection with the process of becoming a citizen. I suspect many of your readers in the States don't even know why someone would want a second citizenship. "Our mutual Canadian friends", aren't interested (though I would recommend it, because it's so easy (for now) and why not?). Whether you want to get into the "why" discussion, as I said, is a whole other ball of wax.

Denise adds, Your right, citizenships and passports are not synonymous. Most US citizens go through their whole life without applying for a USA one. Only those who travel outside of the US do so. Just as many Uruguayans might not have a Uruguayan one either, although I suspect many probably do have an Italian one. 

So without too much ado, I should and need to ask a 9th question for the blog, on why you applied for a second citizenship.       

     #9 How about giving our readers a brief reason "why" you or anyone else might want a second citizenship to go along with their native one.

One reason is to have a second passport, and the Uruguayan one is pretty good, with visa-free travel to about 60 countries, and no "reciprocity" fees to visit Argentina and Brazil.

Safety too: thirty years ago, living in Europe, I'd hear "we like you Americans but we don't like your government." I think it's mostly still the case that Americans as individuals are well received, but the US government has been working overtime to create a host of new enemies since, and I can foresee traveling with a US passport becoming more problematic. Even in 1979, living outside London and finishing my first teaching job, I loved the idea of going overland to India for $100 (using Lonely Planet's first book, the pink saddle-stitched "Across Asia on the Cheap" published a few years before), but blowback earlier that year, from the US meddling in Iran decades before, meant I couldn't travel there, an essential part of the route. (I did get as far as eastern Turkey.)

Again specific to Americans, opening a foreign financial account is increasingly difficult. It's easier for financial institutions to turn away American clients than comply with the onerous and expensive IRS reporting requirements. And it's a very good idea to have assets outside the US, especially if you live there.

Finally, most people consider it extreme, but a second citizenship and passport is essential for renouncing the first. As the US government agencies become increasingly draconian, it's not hard to imagine that having even a modest financial account outside the US would require a CLN (US Certificate of Loss of Nationality) to open or retain. In other words, you wouldn't have to prove you were Uruguayan, you'd have to prove you were NOT American. At that point, I expect new barriers to renunciation would arise. After all, it was only a little over a year ago that the State Dept. suddenly announced a new $450 renunciation fee for what had always been free. Who's to say they wouldn't make it $4,500, or...?

I expect Americans will always be able to open an account at the Banco República (BROU), but even that has gotten tremendously more complicated since we did it four and a half years ago.

A las órdenes, D and S

To D and your wife S; I want to say, Thanks and Congratulations on your new dual citizenship! I appreciate your taking the time to answer my questions. This will be a great blog post, a true, real life success story.

Thank you muchísimo

Denise Glass 

District Assemblies in Uruguay!

An Expat emailed me recently that a big storm was coming! It was due to start Friday, November 1st.

Rain combined with powerful wind gusts can easily wreck havoc down here. Power outages are also a possible threat. I appreciated the warning! However, rather than staying holed up in my house waiting for the icky weather to pass, I had other plans in place.

It's almost the end of the year and while places like the United States have already held their District Assemblies of Jehovah's Christian Witnesses months ago, ours was due to start, you guessed it, Friday, November 1st.

I had already paid for my bus ticket weeks in advance. The District Assembly I was to attend was being held near Pando, in a small town called Colon just outside of Montevideo. Our entire congregation usually rents a couple of buses and we ride together to the Assembly Hall. Which means that I had to be ready and waiting to board it at 7 o'clock AM; from a bus stop on the main Highway/interbalanearia.  Most people that know me, know that I am definitely NOT a morning person whereas, Wally is! I had to set my alarm clock for 5 AM in order to get up in time to get dressed, pack a lunch, gather my Bible, Song book and note pad and pens. etc... At least, I had just had a haircut so that I wouldn't have to do much more than pass a comb through my hair.  I had to make sure that I left the house with at least 15 mins. to spare for the short walk up to the bus stop. There are several Witnesses who live in my same neighborhood, so one of the stops along the way to the assembly hall is at our main Avenue in Marindía, Avenue del Mar. My neighborhood group boarded the bus together at this bus stop and then the bus went down the ruta to Salinas to pick up the next batch of us near the Salinas arch on the ruta. Then it made several more stops and picked up the other groups.

Of course, you don't have to take the group bus to get to the assembly. Some who would rather drive just take their car or motorcycle on down. However, at almost $6 a gallon for gasoline, I think the bus price of about $20, which covers the total 3 days (there and back) is a good deal. This being Uruguay my group rode the bus that morning happily sipping on their Mates, a hot herbal drink similar to tea. It's an acquired taste for those of us not born in Argentina or Uruguay.

There are over 11,000 Jehovah's Witnesses in Uruguay. There will be several District Assemblies held this month to accommodate all of us. In Maldonado the congregations there (in the coming weeks) will hold their assembly in a rented stadium. Another group will hold their assembly in Paysandú and link up to Argentina via computer/phone links and watch the assembly program on giant screens/pantallas.

Our congregation's scheduled turn was as I mentioned, the storm weekend. The Assembly is a 3 day event, Friday thru Sunday. It starts at 9:30 with some music and goes till 5 o'clock with lectures, interviews and Bible discourses (all in Spanish) There is an hour and a half lunch break in between the sessions.  When I got to the Assembly hall, under cloudy skies, I saw that other congregations had also been assigned to the same time slot. I could tell, by the other buses already parked in the parking lot.

Our Assembly hall was built about 10 years ago. It's called an "Educational center" here in Uruguay. I've included some photos of what it looks like on the inside.

All our assemblies and meetings are open to the public. They are free and no donation plates are passed. Instead, there are a few discretely placed contribution boxes scattered around. This way if someone wanted to donate, to the worldwide work of Bible publication and lesson materials, they can do so without feeling pressured.

A highlight of the 3 day Assembly is the Baptism held on Saturday. This assembly saw a total of 13 new ones baptized. We had 1 new one from our congregation take the plunge (literally). We practice full water immersion which means, you have to go "completely" under the water. I took a picture of him and his wife Valeria after his dunk. His hair was still wet. His name is Danielo.

There is an Immersion pool built into the floor of the hall. When the Bible discourses are being held, the pool is covered up. I went down during the baptism to watch the brothers, as we call each other (Brothers and sisters/ hermanos y hermanas) uncover the pool.

To help everyone see the Baptism over the crowd of spectators, there are 2 large projection screens. I realized that I wanted a better look, so I ran around to the other side of the pool, a little too late to see Danielo baptized but I took a photo of someone else clearly being dunked fully under the water.

During the lunch break many run into old acquaintances they have known for years through such meetings. I took a photo of one brother from our congregation who posed with someone he has known for 45 years when they used to be in the same hall near San Jose. The couple in the end photo are from my congregation. He makes his living selling sunglasses at the ferias/farmer's market, where he has a table set up among the main venders. His wife's name is Esther which by coincidence was the main character's name (Queen Esther) in the Bible drama presented on Sunday.

My friend Carolina, along with several other members from our congregation had parts in the drama . The music and dialogue are prerecorded so that the actors have to lip synch the part and learn the proper gestures to help convey the meaning and emotion of the scene.

She let me know, that I could go backstage during the noon break and photograph some of the actors in costume before the drama started. Carolina is in the first photo. She said, that I could recognize her in the drama because she would be holding, "a baby" (a prop). She and her husband Hugo shown in the last photo, are still relatively newly married, so they don't have children yet. In the second photo, Katrina, who is a painter in real life, is seen standing before a woman dressed in Pajamas! That woman was to play a girl in modern times, who is at home with her family when they hear some news that they are about to be persecuted for their faith just like the Jews in Queen Esther's time, who were living in Babylon under Exile. The third photo is Darlene, a young woman who speaks a little English.

The backdrops were quite impressive. In the USA we didn't have such professionally painted backgrounds just props. Here in Uruguay there were several background changes to show different places of action during the drama.

The children in the audience were allowed to come up closer to the stage, in order to, see the action better. I am showing the size of the backdrop in the second photo.  The backdrops and costumes really were enjoyable to see. As the story progresses, you can really appreciate the importance of relying on God in times of trouble.

At the District assemblies, we usually get new releases of various Bible study aids and this assembly was no exception. We got 5 new little informational tracts on various subjects to share with people. A video on a modern adaptation of "the Prodigal Son", which is the story of a young man who leaves home and abandons his upbringing only to return years later a more appreciating person. Also, a new book about various Bible men and women who were outstanding examples of faith. There was also handed out at the end of the program a little brochure designed for children 3 years old and younger to help parents start to help their young ones build a strong relationship with God even at that early age.

I appreciated it because it had various simple lessons that were fun for me since my Spanish is still limited. For instance a little section on what sound/noise do various animals make and who created them. A rooster in Spanish says, "kikiriki" instead of "cock a doodle doo".

This Saying, is referring to John chapter 17 verse 17 ,"Your word is Truth"

All in all, I was glad that my stormy weekend was spent indoors listening to faith building experiences and Bible lessons.

 I was glad to be surrounded by like minded people and friends! As you exit now from our District Assembly feel free to visit again. I just thought I'd share where I was and allow you a tour.

A Botanical Garden in MVD

For those of you who don't know it yet or need a reminder, the seasons down here in South America are the reverse of what's happening up North. While my calendar says, the month of October, normally Autumn/Fall in the USA, it's really only just hitting springtime here, think April.

This last month has been rainy, windy and cold just like a chilly March in Seattle. I did have some daffodils come up a month ago, which I enjoyed looking at but personally, I can't really enjoy gardening or being in one when it's cold.  The good thing about Uruguay is that just when you think you will develop a permanent depression from the lack of sunshine due to overcast days and chilling winds, along comes a hot and sunny day thrown into the mix. We get several of those each month and then you are surprising wearing shorts during the day, when just the night before you went to bed in your robe and wearing a knit hat to keep warm.

I was hoping for such a day to show up because a visitor was planning to come to Uruguay for a vacation trip. Well, after a week of cold and rain, I at least got a slightly warmer but overcast day to play tour guide with. I traveled by bus down to Montevideo and we met at Tres Cruces, a shopping mall and bus station combo in downtown Montevideo.

There, we hoped on a bus, across the street from the mall, on Avenida Artigas and caught the # 187 bus to travel up to the Botanical Garden/Jardín Botánico. It's located in the area called the Prado.

Avenida 19 de Abril, a beautiful neighborhood called El Prado

Beware that there are 2, number 187 buses. You have to take the one that says, 187 Paso Molino (molino, means "mill" and paso can mean, "passing/passage" among other things), otherwise you'll end up in a slightly different place. From Tres cruces the bus fare was only 21 pesos. My friend had studied horticulture with a one time idea of becoming a landscape architect, so a trip to a public garden seemed appropriate. Besides, you know me, the entrance to the garden is free!

Notice the cool artsy mail box on the first house, it looks like an African mask

The Prado neighborhood has some beautiful grand old houses in it, many of which have been converted into schools and other such things because of their size. The neighborhood is well-treed.

After asking everybody on the bus when we should jump off the consensus was to pass a grocery store called Tienda Inglésa and that we would then be at the backside of the garden on Avenida Atilio Pelosi, located at address 11700 (in MVD). After a little old lady kept saying get off now! We jumped off the bus and walked 1/2 a block to the entrance.

The garden was established by Professor, Atilio Lombardo. On arriving, I just had to have an obligatory picture taken of myself, to show I was there. I often don't get included in my blog because I am the photographer in the family.

Mono means one; I was told that the rest of the sign means; the first leaf/s showing on an emerging shoot.

The second photo directly above is not a monument to Professor A. Lombardo but rather that of       Dr. Albert Boeger, a German Agronomy engineer (study of crop production) from Westfalia, Germany.  In 1911/12 the ROU (government of Uruguay) contacted him to come and start a program for the betterment of principals of cultivation. In 1914 he founded "La Estanzuela" near Colonia (Uruguay) later called (1919), the National Seed Institution... to investigate the study and selection of seeds, particularly wheat seeds to cultivate in this country. In 1918, his research team released the first Uruguayan wheat varieties. He continued in the forefront of this research until his death in 1957. He has a plaza named after him near Colonia.

The Wikipedia says that a botanical garden is a well tended area displaying a wide range of plants labeled with their botanical names. It may contain specialized plant collections ..., plants from particular parts of the world and so on. There maybe green houses and shade houses again with special collections such as tropical plants.....

This botanical garden has divided itself into regions like Uruguay, Africa and Asia along with their plants, so you can essentially walk around the world during a visit, plant-wise.



According to this wiki definition, the garden that I visited in the Prado neighborhood is a true botanical garden, although many of the plant labels are sadly worn or missing. Even if you are not into plant identification the garden is just nice to walk around in. I would recommend waiting until better weather to do so.

The last photo shows what's called Cypress trees' knees. When the roots need to breath they send these up in wet soil.

When you get tired of strolling through the garden it's also a great place just to sit in, especially under a grand shade tree.

The wiki article talked about green houses and I found one, knocked on the door and asked if I could go inside. There was a man inside and he said, he didn't think so. Then a beautiful little girl about 7 or 8 years old, said she would run and go ask her mother, if we could come inside. Sure enough a lovely lady came to the door and said yes, I could come inside. So guest and I started wandering around the hot house. We asked, if it has to be heated during these cold months and she said yes, they have a heating unit to do so. It's naturally hot in summer.

At first, the greenhouse looked pretty no nonsense but as we were allowed to explore on our own, it became quite magical. We stepped through an old interior doorway and the elegance of the structure showed itself.

The glass was dirty but the iron framed window panes were truly lovely. I could see why the little girl wanted us to see what she and her mother get to enjoy.

After the greenhouse visit, we went in search of the museum but sadly the sign said that it was permanently closed for reformation.

I guess that means renovation and repairs. It has been closed, for a while now, since last year (2012), it was also closed. I guess the use of the word "permanente" means, don't bother asking us when it will reopen. I did ask however, if I could step inside and take a photo from the doorway. They said, yes/Sí.

Then we sat on this bench and looked at the lovely planted urn. Since this is early in the growing season, I sadly missed, seeing the outside of the museum in all of its glory. I have seen photos of the ivy covered facade and it was gorgeous! As I was looking at the bare and twisting branches, I couldn't help but think, I will now suggest not coming here until everything is in full bloom or leaf in this case.

In the future I want to go to the (somewhat) nearby Japanese garden behind the Blane Museum, also in the Prado area. I wanted to do that on this visit as well but unfortunately my visitor had aching legs having walked throughout Old town (ciudad viejo) and Montevideo on first arriving here in Uruguay a day earlier. I would and will next time on visiting this neighborhood just hail a taxi cab (quite reasonably priced here) and indulge my longings. Even I, know when to splurge, just a little, to be able to stroll down a garden lane.

Quinoa!

Truck selling Quinoa y etc...

I don't claim to be a cook but sometimes recipes find me and I feel compelled to pass them along.

That's what happened when I was introduced to the side dish Quinoa at a dinner, the first of this year.

Despite it's being hailed as the new "superfood" back in the USA, I had never heard of the stuff. I wasn't sure if it was a grain or a very fine pasta similar to couscous, or what? Nope! It's a seed!

It's grown high up in the Andes mountains, right here in South America in Ecuador and Bolivia. It can be cultivated at altitudes of 10,000 feet. Unlike me, the Incas knew its value all along calling it, "Chisaya mama" (the mother of all grains), as mentioned in "Mother Nature Network".
Obviously, it's not new at all, but has been enjoying recent popularity.

Click on the above "superfood" link for this and other information on it's nutritional content. It's considered a "superfood" because of it's high protein content and 8 essential amino acids, thus it's great for Vegetarians as an important part of their menu. It contains no gluten or wheat!

What does this have to do with Uruguay? Well, it's sold here in grocery stores and at the feria. After that dinner party, Wally said that he liked the dish and felt we should add it to our home cooked menu. Something other than mashed potatoes or rice or pasta as a starch would be nice. I looked in at our little neighborhood "mom and pop" store (almacen) and sure enough there was a bag of it, 500 grams for 70 pesos (about $3.75). Still, since this was the first time that I was going to make it or try to cook it, I cheapen out at the last minute and didn't want to spend that much for an experiment. How surprised I was to find out that it was also available at the feria, our local weekly farmer's market.

As I was waiting in line at the "Truck" that was selling it, along with the dried prunes and peanuts that I usually buy there, several women saw me peeking at the product in the glass case. Many didn't know what it was either. One woman (also in line) seemed to be in the know and said something in Spanish, to the effect that it could be used, whatever way, you wanted to use it, meaning sweeten or used as a salted dish. I chimed in that someone had served it to me as a side dish instead of rice. So since you can readily buy it here and yet many people don't normally use it, I thought I'd share what I learned on how to prepare and cook it.

Since I hadn't bought the store package but had bought it loose (suelto) in bulk at the feria, @13 pesos for 100grams, I had no idea or directions to follow on how to cook it. I had bought 200 grams of the stuff (about a full cups' worth) for 26 pesos (about $1.40).

 I obviously," Hablé por teléfono" (I called up) the person who first served it to me. Well, that person had used his up and no longer had the package hence the directions. Still, what is great is watching the expat connection spring into action. He emailed another expat and soon I was emailed the directions by that expat! Thanks, Tim!!!

It is vital that you rinse these little seeds again and again! I did it 3 times! The seeds don't look dirty but they have a bitter tasting coating called Saponins which makes it unpalatable.

Cover it with water, then slosh it around to remove the bitter saponins. Rinse and repeat.

The interesting thing is that, in North America this coating is usually already rinsed off for the consumers but here in South American countries it's left for you to do that. If you don't rinse it, enough times, the taste is like earthy green slime without the slickness, I was warned about this. The Wikipedia link is really interesting about it's history etc... just click on the link "Saponins", located above in brown.

The seeds start out light colored but the end product (after it's cooked) takes on a golden color. The result is light and fluffy. I think it needs some kind of seasoning though (perhaps a little bit of butter and more salt) because totally plain it has (to me at least) an earthy taste/quality but then again I feel that way about natural brown rice and whole wheat. It's definitely good for you and keeps the menu varied!

It's just like cooking rice!
Recipe:1 part Quinoa to 2 parts water

Start by
Rinsing and draining. Rinse and drain and rinse and drain!
Bring your water to a boil
add salt to the water (to your liking)
add the drained, washed Quinoa
Bring to a boil again
then lower the heat.
Cover and simmer for 15 minutes!
Eat and Enjoy (it's really fluffy and light)

Note: I cooked 1 cup of the Quinoa in 2 cups of water with a little salt. After it was cooked, I added a little butter and more salt (to my liking). That amount can easily serve 4 people as a side dish.

I'll try and be on the lookout for anymore interesting foodstuffs being sold in those feria trucks and stands.

I would normally say right now, that it just goes to show, you're never too old to try new things, except that today, I went to an Asado/ a BBQ, given by some friends and I "passed" on eating, not only the cow's tongue but also on the salvia glands of a cow! So, instead I'll say, you're never too old to "learn about" something new! Quinoa, you don't have to be daring to try it. Enjoy!